Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS27: Disarming the Uniform
For Spring/Summer 2027, Rei Kawakubo began with an almost impossible proposition: if the war were to end. At Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, military language was not erased so much as disarmed. Camouflage returned in softened, psychedelic pastels; flags were fragmented into panels of colour; and striped tailoring opened into tunics, skirts and loose layers made for air rather than armour.
The idea continued above the body through the collection’s collaboration with HIZUME. Created by Paris-based Japanese milliner Nobuki Hizume, the first Japanese recipient of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France title in the millinery category, the oversized sun hats displaced the helmet with something stranger, lighter and almost celebratory.
Photographed by Jonathan Chandi, the collection appears caught between memory and possibility: still carrying the visual remains of conflict, while daring to imagine what might replace them.
